Guides · Geysers · From the job

Replacing a 60-year-old geyser, rated in gallons

Lightning Fast Plumbing & Electrical · 6 October 2026

Badge on an old Frumex electric water heater, made by Frumer and Bennetts Sheet Metal Works in Maitland, Cape Town

The maker's badge: Frumer & Bennetts Sheet Metal Works, The Outspan, Maitland, Cape Town.

Last week a geyser burst in a block of flats in Diep River, about 60 years old. When we took it down, it turned out to be a piece of Cape Town history: a Frumex electric water heater, made by Frumer & Bennetts Sheet Metal Works in Maitland. It had very likely been there since the flats were built.

What the rating plate tells you

Frumex rating plate showing 30 gallons, 2000 watts, 220 volts and a 35 foot working head
The rating plate: gallons, feet, watts and volts.

South Africa began changing to metric units in 1967 and finished in the late 1970s, so a plate in gallons and feet dates the geyser to before that.

A low-pressure geyser, fed by gravity

This geyser never ran on mains pressure. It was fed from a small header tank above it, and gravity did the rest. "35 ft working head" is the greatest height of water standing above it that it was built to take: about 10.7 metres, or roughly 105 kPa.

Its replacement is a mains-pressure geyser rated at 600 kPa, almost six times as much. That's why a modern installation needs so much more around it.

Still running an old low-pressure geyser? Many older homes and flats in the Southern Suburbs still have one. If you're not sure what's in your roof, we can take a look and tell you how much life it has left, before it decides for you.

How it failed

Rust breaking through the paint on the casing of the old Frumex geyser
Rust coming through the casing from the inside.

It rusted through from the inside and burst one Friday lunchtime. After decades of service, that's not a bad innings for a geyser made in Maitland.

The problem: no room for the valves

Today's installation standard, SANS 10254, asks for a lot more than a 1960s geyser ever had: a pressure control valve, vacuum breakers, a safety valve and a drip tray, all piped correctly. The original geyser hung on a kitchen wall tucked under a flat roof, and in that space there simply wasn't room for all of it.

So the team:

New geyser hanging on the wall, partly inside the opened ceiling of the flat roof
The new geyser going up, with the ceiling opened into the roof cavity.

Why chemical anchors and not Rawl bolts

A Rawl bolt grips by expanding inside the hole and pushing outward against the brick. In old, soft brickwork that outward pressure can crack or crumble the wall, and 100 litres of water weighs 100 kg before you even count the geyser itself.

A chemical anchor is resin injected into a cleaned, drilled hole. The threaded rod sets inside it and bonds to the masonry without pushing outward on the brick. It takes longer, because the resin has to cure before you load it, but on a 60-year-old wall it's the right way to do it.

The result: a new geyser hung on threaded rods set in resin and locked down with washers and nuts, with every valve the regulations require.

Old geysers across the Southern Suburbs

Low-pressure geysers like this one are still common in older flats and homes across the Southern Suburbs and South Peninsula: in Diep River, Plumstead, Wynberg, Kenilworth and Rondebosch, and from Muizenberg and Kalk Bay to Fish Hoek. If yours bursts tonight, start with our burst geyser steps for Diep River, Steenberg and Muizenberg. If you're weighing up what to replace yours with, read electric, solar or heat pump. In a block of flats, it's worth knowing who fixes what before the geyser goes.

Common questions

How do I know if my geyser is a low-pressure one?

Look for a small tank higher up in the roof feeding it, or a vent pipe rising above the geyser instead of a pressure control valve on the cold inlet. Low-pressure systems usually give weaker flow at the hot taps than at the cold ones. If you're unsure, a photo of the geyser and its pipework on WhatsApp is often enough for us to tell you.

Can an old low-pressure geyser simply be swapped for a modern one?

Usually, but not always like for like. A mains-pressure geyser needs the valves and drip tray the old one never had, and the pipework has to handle the higher pressure. In tight spaces that can mean opening up the ceiling, as on this job. We check all of this before quoting, so there are no surprises halfway through.

Why not just use the bolts that are already in the wall?

Old fixings were sized for a different geyser, often in brickwork that has weakened over the decades. A new geyser full of water is heavy, and it's fixed to the wall for many years, so it gets new fixings chosen for the wall it's going on.

Old geyser in your roof?

Call or WhatsApp us. We'll check it and tell you honestly how much life it has left, with a fixed, itemised quote if it needs replacing.

What clients say

In their own words, from our Google reviews.

Etienne and his team were quick and provided detailed reports. Hoping to make use of his services for many years to come as both of our businesses grow. He helped with a geyser / insurance replacement and CoCs for the sale of a house.
Miguel HowellGreeff Christie's, Kommetjie · Google review
Excellent service from start to finish. The whole COC process was handled incredibly quickly, professionally and efficiently. Communication was clear, everything was thorough, and the turnaround time was lightning fast. Reliable, knowledgeable and an absolute pleasure to deal with. I would highly recommend their services.
Alexandra PikeGreeff Properties, Simon's Town · Google review
Read all our Google reviews →

Keep reading

GuideGeyser leaking? Here's what it usually meansPlumsteadReplacing the geyser: electric, solar or heat pump?GuideHeat pumps: how they compare to solarGuideSolar geysers: what installation involves
WhatsApp Call now